How to Choose a Roofing Contractor on Long Island

New York State requires a Home Improvement Contractor (HIC) license in both Nassau and Suffolk counties. This is not optional. An unlicensed contractor cannot legally do roofing work on your house.

How to check:

• Nassau County: Search the Nassau County Consumer Affairs license database. The license number format is H followed by digits.
• Suffolk County: Search the Suffolk County Consumer Affairs license database. The license number includes -H.

What to look for: An active license with no pending complaints, judgments, or revocations. If the contractor cannot produce a license number or tells you they "don't need one because it's under $500" (a common lie), walk away.

Every roofing contractor should carry:

1. General liability insurance — $1M minimum, $2M is better. Protects you if the crew damages your property.
2. Workers compensation insurance — Covers the crew if someone is injured on your roof. Without this, YOU can be held liable for a crew member's injury on your property.
3. Auto liability — Covers the trucks and trailers on your property and street.

How to verify: Ask for a Certificate of Insurance (COI) and call the insurance company listed on it to confirm the policy is active. Any legitimate contractor will produce this in 5 minutes. A contractor who stalls, makes excuses, or says "I'll get it to you later" is either uninsured or underinsured.

Three quotes is the minimum. Five is better if you have the patience. When comparing quotes, compare apples to apples:

Every quote should specify:

• Full tear-off vs overlay (full tear-off is correct)
• Type and brand of underlayment
• Where ice and water shield is installed
• Drip edge (new on all edges, or reuse old?)
• Ridge vent type and installation
• Flashing scope (new vs re-seal at chimneys, skylights, walls)
• Shingle brand and product line
• Workmanship warranty length
• Manufacturer warranty details
• Permit inclusion
• Disposal inclusion
• Payment terms

The cheapest quote is usually missing something. A quote that is 30% below the other two is not a bargain; it is a warning. The most common shortcuts: no ice and water shield, reusing old drip edge, roof cement instead of new flashing, overlay instead of tear-off, no permit.

Before you sign, ask every contractor these questions:

1. "How many roofs have you done on Long Island?" Experience matters. A crew on its 500th roof works differently from a crew on its 10th.

1. "Who will actually be on my roof?" Is it the contractor's own crew or subcontractors? Own crew is better — more accountability, more consistency.

1. "Will you pull the permit?" The only correct answer is yes. If they suggest skipping the permit "to save you money," they are putting you at legal and insurance risk.

1. "What happens if you find damaged decking?" The correct answer is: they replace it and charge you at a pre-agreed per-sheet price. The wrong answer is: a vague "we'll figure it out."

1. "Can I see three recent local references?" Not online reviews (which can be gamed), but actual names and phone numbers of recent customers you can call.

1. "What manufacturer certifications do you have?" GAF Master Elite (top 3%), CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster, Owens Corning Platinum Preferred. These certifications require training, portfolio review, and ongoing standards compliance.

1. "What is your workmanship warranty?" 2 years is the New York State minimum. 5 years is standard. 10 years is premium. A contractor who offers only the minimum 2-year warranty is not confident in their own work.

Walk away if a roofing contractor:

• Knocks on your door after a storm offering a "free inspection." Storm chasers prey on homeowners after weather events. They do fast, low-quality work and are gone before the problems appear.
• Asks for full payment upfront. Standard is 30% deposit, balance on completion. A contractor who wants 100% before starting is a flight risk.
• Has no physical address. A truck and a phone number is not a business. A shop, an office, or a verifiable address is.
• Pushes you to sign today with "today only" pricing or "we're in the neighborhood" discounts. Legitimate contractors do not pressure you.
• Suggests skipping the permit or the inspection. This puts you at legal risk and can void your insurance coverage.
• Cannot produce a license or insurance certificate within 24 hours.
• Wants to do an overlay instead of a full tear-off. Overlays are shortcuts that trap moisture and hide deck damage.
• Offers an extremely low price. If one quote is $8,000 and the others are $14,000-$17,000, the $8,000 contractor is cutting corners you cannot see from the ground.

Hire the contractor, not the price. The materials are roughly the same across all legitimate contractors (GAF, CertainTeed, and Owens Corning sell to everyone). What differs is installation quality, attention to detail, warranty backing, and accountability.

A well-installed $16,000 roof will outperform a poorly-installed $22,000 roof every time. And a poorly-installed $10,000 roof will cost you $25,000 within 5 years when you have to do it again.

Ask the questions. Check the license. Verify the insurance. Compare the scopes. And hire someone who shows up when they say they will, does the detail nobody can see from the ground, and stands behind their work.